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Routes in The Beach, Right Side

Assume the Position S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crystal Voyage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flotsam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Keelhauled T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lowest Common Denominator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Message In a Bottle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Riptide T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schrodinger's Cat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shark Bait T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel, Jonny Woodward
Page Views: 186 total, 3/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Portal Road Closure Details

Description

This route was established by climbers who placed the bolts on aid, and who did not free it. The pitch was later free climbed and the bolts in the upper half re-arranged so they followed the line and could be clipped on lead, without the crux being clipping the bolts.

Start by scambling up the right side of the pillar. Step back left and start clipping bolts. The bolts on the lower half were left as placed by the original party. Good climbing on good knobs characterizes the first half of the pitch. At about the halfway point the knobs thin down and start to peter out. Do somewhat thinner and enjoyable climbing past a few bolts. A final sequence to obtain the flake coming in from the right requires a little thought.

Location

Far right side of the wall, at the top of the scree. Beneath the obvious pillar/flake.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
  5.11d
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
  5.11d
I like this one, the odd start off the pillar for the first two bolts is best part of the climb. Agree with the description for the general nature of the climbing. The crux area is intense with two distinct hard places. Apr 26, 2013