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Message In a Bottle
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in The Beach, Right Side
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Assume the Position S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crystal Voyage T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flotsam T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Keelhauled T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lowest Common Denominator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Message In a Bottle T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Riptide T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Schrodinger's Cat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shark Bait T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jonny Woodward, Darrell Hensel |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Darrell Hensel on Mar 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A fun exercise in knobs, edging, and smearing. A little wandering on pitch two, but still quite good.
Pitch 1: Do the obvious thin crack that slowly opens to hands. At the broken ledge step left and follow the flake to the bolt anchor at it's top. The crack on this pitch tends to occasionally require cleaning. 5.9.
Pitch 2: Easy knob climbing thins down as the climbing moves a little right. From the last really good knobs curve back left on ever decreasing knobs. Thin moves then lead straight up and eventually back left. The climbing gets a little more run in this area. From the last bolt do a longish easy runout to the anchor - on a great fin like knob feature. 12a.
Pitch 1: Do the obvious thin crack that slowly opens to hands. At the broken ledge step left and follow the flake to the bolt anchor at it's top. The crack on this pitch tends to occasionally require cleaning. 5.9.
Pitch 2: Easy knob climbing thins down as the climbing moves a little right. From the last really good knobs curve back left on ever decreasing knobs. Thin moves then lead straight up and eventually back left. The climbing gets a little more run in this area. From the last bolt do a longish easy runout to the anchor - on a great fin like knob feature. 12a.
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