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Simple Twist of Fate

WI5-, Ice, 250 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.8 from 10 votes
FA: Tobin & Parks 12/1979
Alaska > Anchorage & S C… > Anchorage & S C… > Valdez > Keystone Canyon

Description

The prominent ice flow in the narrow gully between the huge routes Bridalveil Falls (left) and Greensteps (right). Ascend some 500' of snow/easy ice to the base of the business. If climbing with 60M ropes, one will have to build a belay at the bottom of the steeps, directly in the fall-line (not-advised). With 70M ropes, a belay can be built some 50' down and right of the hard climbing, providing the belayer with some margin of safety from the garbage chute. From here, climb a full ropelength of steep 80-90 degree ice, making sure to take advantage of the few nice rest stances. Semi-hanging/stance belay just below the alders. Rap from here via v-thread, or continue up a second pitch of much easier snow/ice ramp to a bolted rappel station at the rim of the canyon.

Location

The obvious gully/flow between the big routes Bridalveil Falls and Greensteps. 2 min approach from the large turnout on the west side of the road (assuming the Low River is frozen). Rap from bolts/v-threads back to your packs.

Protection

Many screws, v-thread material, HELMET!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kelsey Gray with a great shot of Dan and Travis on Simple Twist
[Hide Photo] Kelsey Gray with a great shot of Dan and Travis on Simple Twist
Simple Twist of Fate is the long narrow climb under the pine trees.<br>
[Hide Photo] Simple Twist of Fate is the long narrow climb under the pine trees.
Jason Stuckey leading the crux pitch of Simple Twist of Fate WI5-
[Hide Photo] Jason Stuckey leading the crux pitch of Simple Twist of Fate WI5-
Mat on the way down from Simple Twist of Fate
[Hide Photo] Mat on the way down from Simple Twist of Fate
Simple Twist of Fate WI5-
[Hide Photo] Simple Twist of Fate WI5-