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Routes in Jungle Gym Area

Alchemy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alchemy Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alchemy Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left of Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Arete T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Riding Rough on Helen Reddy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spider Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spire, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stemin' Monkey T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unruly Macaque S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Well-disciplined Monkey S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Jones
Page Views: 411 total, 7/month
Shared By: Scott Jones R n R on Mar 4, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Fun, with some exciting exposure. V1+ (or easy V2) boulder problem up the arete.

This climb heads up under the arete and around to the right of it up to where you can clip the bolt on the arete by stemming across while holding onto face holds on the face to the right of the arete. After clipping the bolt, climb up 1 or 2 feet and traverse left onto the arete and then climb up the center of the arete.

Another variation is to keep traversing left from the bolt and go up the left side of the arete placing a couple of cams on the way to the chains. Bolts from Stemin' Monkey will be to your left.

Another variation is just to follow the crack to the right of the arete up all the way and then traverse left to the chains shared by Little Arete and Stemin' Monkey.

Location

This is the little arete to the right of the big overhang with other routes on it. You can see the bolt on the arete.

Protection

Trad gear. The crux is protected by the one bolt. Shares anchors with Stemin' Monkey.

Photos

Terminal Rookie
Salida, Colorado
 
Terminal Rookie   Salida, Colorado
 
Excellent exposure during the heel hook I'd heard so much about. I placed a .75 and 1 down where the "roof" starts and you climb right.(speaking in BD C4's) If you zip it up tight it takes a .75, 2, and 1 before you reach over and clip the bolt. Once over the arete you can plug a #3 to protect the traverse/reach over to the chains. Bring a runner if you don't like rope drag. Mar 6, 2017