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Feeding the Beast

5.12b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Coney Island
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description

Scramble up ledges and blocks to the base of the hanging arete. Mantle onto a big ledge, clip high, and relax. Meanwhile prepare for the powerful crux moving onto and grappling up the arete on slopers. When the arete leans right, you can either follow it for a pumpy finish or roll straight over and paddle up easy climbing to a ledge to clip the anchor. It is a fairly awkward finish either way, though it is somewhat contrived to stay right.

This has pretty solid rock throughout aside from the discontinuous beginning and an avoidable detached bulge up top.

Location

It is the furthest left route on the upper crag. Climb the sharp arete that makes up the end of the wall.

Protection

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It has a very high first bolt which can be stick clipped from the blocks left of the arete.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

SteveZ
Excelsior, MN
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] If anyone knows the FA info, let me know and I'll edit it in.

For what it's worth, my partner and I thought the crux was pretty stout (though brief) for 12b as listed in Bob D's book. Probably somewhere in between Joy Ride and Der Letzte Zug difficulty wise. Mar 3, 2013