PRINT: Rock Climb S=k log W, Southeast Utah

S=k log W

5.9 PG13, Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 1.6 from 5 votes
FA: Paul bucher & taylor bond
Utah > Southeast Utah > River Rd > Utopia

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

nice route. way better than it looks. starts up a somewhat broken up looking crack, over a slight bulge to a dirty ledge. go thru or around the ledge then into a stellar splitter in a right facing corner to a chimney with a nice thin crack for pro. great anchors and ledge to belay from. really good route but be cautious of loose rock. it is possible to climb the notovitch codex to the ledge and traverse over to S=k log W from there, avoiding the lower section.

Location

30 feet left of the big obvious ramp that is terma. 15 feet left of the notovitch codex. anchors visible from the ground.

Protection

standard desert rack with extra 3 and 4 camalots.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

taylor on the job

the sweet spot

almost there

on the FA

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jefe Moab
Moab

5.9 PG13

First half to dirty ledges is spooky. Pulled several holds off and did not trust two equalized pieces that protected a ground out about 20 feet up. This lower part is too chossy to clean up with just more traffic. Led as one pitch, but had rope drag at the top due to upper half set-back. Better to skip the lower choss, climb the 5.7 to its right to its anchors and then move left and climb the upper half of this route. Take one-each from .2 to #4 for the upper half. Feb 6, 2022