Light & Sweet

Climb the pillar and make an awkward move to get on top of the boulder (or work around it) and established on the ledge. Sling a tree or two before setting out - you will soon be standing below a 15' vertical blanket of styrofoam ice on your way to safer stuff above. A final vertical curtain blocks the top-out.

Near the center of the main face. This route originally started at the very base of the cliff, at the fat pillar capped by a boulder on the short face leading to a big ledge (often used for belaying) 20' up. Look for the widest band of ice on the vertical section midway, which lies almost directly below a large, dead pine tree.

Screws, including a stubby or two, and runners.