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Routes in Starbuck Central

Breakfast Blend WI3
Candyland WI4- PG13
Dancing Goats WI4-
Fare Trade WI3
Light & Sweet WI4 R
Polish Roast TR WI3-4 M7
Via WI2
Wake-Up Call WI4 R
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Type: Ice, 100 ft
FA: Feb 2013
Page Views: 206 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Feb 26, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

One of the fatter lines on Starbuck Central's main face, this is still prone to serious sunbaking. The FA was certainly in question at the top-out, which was thoroughly unbonded, thin, and baked.
Climb iced slabs to the steep face. Lock up pro as best you can before advancing. Easy does it up the vertical glaze - a stubby may be possible in good conditions along the way, but alacrity is recommended. The going eases awhile when you reach a brush-screened ledge. The final curtain is thin, and was desperately fragile by the time we tackled this route. Creative, but still probably worthless, pro design coupled with prayer and trembling accomplished the feat.

Location

This is the first "not-totally-thin" continuous flow on the main face. It is about 40' right of Dancing Goats. Look for a minor break in the ledge system at the top of the vertical section.

Protection

Ice screws to 19cm, heavy on stubbies, and a bunch of narrow-diameter runners for slinging laughably small brush. A 6'+ runner for slinging the top curtain may offer some mental pro.

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