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Routes in Femme Fatale Area

Type: Boulder
FA: Thomas Townsend, February 2013
Page Views: 750 total, 13/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Feb 25, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Enter Sandman is the culmination of cleaning, attempting, failing on, and eventually sending one of my long term projects. Except that I didn't send it, in the end. Thomas did. Anyhoo, I was calling this project "Muad'dib" for a long time, in reference to a character from Frank Herbert's epic Sci-FI book, Dune.

Begin on some wild-looking pockets and pinches, and lurch up to a huge but distant lip-gaston. Turn the gaston in to an undercling, throw for the top lip, and mantle. If you're not careful, the first move will likely dislocate your shoulder. Awesome little line, in my opinion.

Location

From the arete of Kathy Moffat, look down and right in to the big, black, burned-out cave. Enter Sandman climbs out the far left side of the cave.

Protection

Pad. Spot.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Yes, Thom exited straight out the lip. The "right" exit, which is known as the Arrakis Project, climbs about thirty feet of diagonally traversing rock, with a not-so-great landing. We think it's probably about the same grade as Enter Sandman. Feb 27, 2013
Yeah, my fault on the bad photo. Was moving some files and saw that pic and Seans request, so I tossed it up, but this climb deserves a quality shot. Thom is a beast... So he did the mantel top out to the left, as opposed to following the (extremely dirty) lip of the cave out right? Feb 27, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
This photo shows the start, but the top-out is obviously obscured. I'll try to nab a photo next time I'm up at the Mouth. Trust me: the problem looks better "in person". Feb 26, 2013
Sean Denny
Irvine
Sean Denny   Irvine
Does anyone have a picture of this forthcoming? I'd be stoked to see it. Feb 26, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Thomas made it clear to me that he merely suggests V10-11. He encourages others to try the problem and comment on their perspective. Feb 25, 2013