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Routes in Carney Springs Wall

De Grazia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Honeymooners P1 Variation, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honeymooners, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
To Air is Human T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain & Peggy Buckey 02-1988
Page Views: 261 total · 4/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Feb 24, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! Details

Description

This route climbs the center of the Carney Springs Wall. The approach takes roughly 1-2 hours. The route name memorializes the whippers that were taken on the second pitch.

P1: Start left of the Honeymooners below a slab and just left of a bushy crack. Climb the center of the slab past one bolt to a ramp. Go up right on the ramp past a layback move to a shallow left facing corner on the wall above. Climb this past three bolts (5.10+/11-) to the lower angled face above. Climb pockets past a bolt to a two bolt hanging belay (150 feet).
P2: Climb up left from the belay past two bolts to a short, left facing corner in the wave of rock above. Up the corner to a sloping ledge (bolt), then reach over the wave on "holds." Swing over on the left (crux), then up the face past pockets (TCUs) to a wide crack. Follow the crack up left to a belay ledge and an anchor (60 feet).

Notes: The first bolt on P1 was placed after the FA. All other bolts were placed on the lead. The 3rd bolt on P2 (in the wave) was placed from a hook after some good whippers were taken.

Location

This route climbs the center of the Carney Springs Wall. The approach takes roughly 1-2 hours.

Protection

The route is mostly protected by bolts.
Rappel the route.

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