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Rainbow Serpent

WI6, Ice, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 4 from 6 votes
FA: Joe Josephson & Wrobleski; 1992
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Ghost (North, S… > S Ghost > Devil's Gap > Phantom Crag

Description

A spectacular route that completely forms only occasionally. If it's in, get on it! Either start at the base of a shield of ice below the route or start at the base of the free standing pillar. Climb the vertical, sustained pillar to a comfortable belay below the overhangs. The second (crux) pitch follows the line of least resistance (either right or left) around the overhangs to a long sustained pillar that leads to the top.

Location - The Recital Hall

The Recital Hall is an amazing bowl just 100m in diameter, that can only be accessed by climbing Aquarius. Two great routes, Fearful Symmetry and Rainbow Serpent, spill into the bowl. Rainbow Serpent is around the corner to the right, and can't be seen until you are directly beneath it.

Protection

Screws for protection, and chord for v-thread belay and rappel anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Simon cruising up the final meters of Rainbow Serpent!
[Hide Photo] Simon cruising up the final meters of Rainbow Serpent!
January 10, 2019 conditions on Rainbow Serpent... currently a tough mixed route.
[Hide Photo] January 10, 2019 conditions on Rainbow Serpent... currently a tough mixed route.
Rainbow Serpent, December 2013
[Hide Photo] Rainbow Serpent, December 2013
Serpent<br>
[Hide Photo] Serpent

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Clint Helander
Anchorage, AK
  WI6
[Hide Comment] absolutely incredible route in a stunning setting. The Recital Hall is a completely unique place and the Serpent is what ice dreams are made of! Sep 12, 2013