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Routes in The Candlestick Wall

Candlestick, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crystal Flame S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Line, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thai Stick S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 370 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding, Jay Foley-1999
Page Views: 1,341 total, 23/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Feb 22, 2013
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

This route starts out an alpine scramble, 2nd pitch is is a moderate classic, and 3rd pitch is one of the 4-star, overhanging gems of the THAIWAND. From the base of "Primal Scream"(far left side of the THAIWAND) hike further up through the jungle to the left. A faint trail heads up towards a steep tree filled gully of solid, sharp limestone. Usually there is a fixed rope to lead the way. Solo or rope up to climb(5.5) the 120' exposed approach pitch to the base of the quality red wall above.
Pitch2-5.9(120')-starts up the clean squeeze chimney to a ledge. Step to the right 15' to climb the orange, candle waxed corner straight up to where the pitch splits into 2 options. Left leads up to the large belay ledge below the "Red Line" and "Crystal Flame". Right is the original line that climbs out onto a fun series of pockets up to the "Candlestick Cave". A small cave that comfortably fits 2-4 people with an amazing view.
Pitch 3-5.10+(130')-steps out right to gain the steep, acute corner culminating into the 1st pumpy, pocketed crux. A bit of a rest before pulling the gymnastic overhang to gain the Candlestick above. Stemming on the left side, swap to the right side, hug the prow of the candle until jamming straight up the wick.(crux) Power through the pocketed section and up to the anchor. This pitch is 130' from the cave, lowering from here, with 1 rope, is very tricky and heady(70m rope suggested). There is a sub-anchor 25' out from the belay cave that can be reached when lowering. Belay the 2nd climber from here. To descend, do a short rap to an anchor below the cave. From here, one 30m rap gets you back to the base of the 2nd pitch. One more rappel down the approach pitch gets you back on terra firma... Climbing to the very top with 2 ropes is not necessary but is a fun way to get some major exposure. By trailing a 2nd rope to the top that is fixed in the "Belay Cave", you can do a wildy overhanging(30' from the wall!!) rappel back to the cave. Great photo opp. and breathtaking exposure!!!

Location

From the base of "Primal Scream"(far left side of the THAIWAND) hike further up through the jungle to the left. A faint trail heads up towards a steep tree filled gully of solid, sharp limestone. Usually there is a fixed rope to lead the way. Solo or rope up to climb the 120' exposed approach pitch to the base of the quality red wall above.

Protection

This Route was rebolted with Titanium bolts in 2004.
Herm-Dawg Millionaire
Bozeman, Montana
 
Herm-Dawg Millionaire   Bozeman, Montana
 
By far, my favorite climb on this wall. The exposure is breathtaking, especially the last half of the top pitch. I would've rated this harder than the Red Line, if only for the serious rope drag. Keep that in mind when placing gear around the stalactites! Classic line. Apr 6, 2016
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Fantastic Route and a great access pitch that allows for cragging higher up on the wall. Many excellent routes branch off from this guy! Fun in the Shade for certain! Apr 23, 2014