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Routes in Left Over Bun

Belly Roll Arch S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Heart of Sharpness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lumpy Rump S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smokestack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,158 total, 20/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A climbing move or two gets you to the start of a curving chimney. Pass several chockstones that offer opportunities for gear inside the chimney. Near the top, either climb deeper into the chimney and burrow through to the top, or stay on the outer edge for the more difficult finish to the anchors. Enough protection can be found along the way to keep you going, but you won't be sewing this one up where ever you'd like. It's a good introduction to climbing in chimneys.

Location

The obvious chimney in the west side of Left Over Bun. Standing on the west side of the rock, where you can see the Sugarloaf school yard below, this feature is easy to find.

Protection

Cams, single .5" - 1"

Photos

Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Mucho gracias, Sal. Updated. Feb 25, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.6
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.6
This route has been called the "smokestack" for the past 40 years and is pretty much standard for 5.6 chimneys. Feb 20, 2013