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Routes in Roofer Madness and Fairweather Walls

Roofer Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: John Ficker, Jim Zahn, Mike Long 1981 per Phx Rock 2 guidebook
Page Views: 366 total · 6/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Feb 18, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Rock Climbing Closure - North Face of Tom's Thumb. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start on a crumbly and steep crack which is tough for the grade I think. Interesting move to get established, then I got in some small cams and nuts and progressed with some trouble. Above another 20 feet is a 6-7 foot hand crack through an A-frame roof. The hand crack continues another 12 feet or so to a ledge. The roof is really fun jamming and stemming, and probably three stars in itself. But given the limited variety at the crag and the lower quality start, I couldn't give this more than a single star total. Worth doing though.

Location [Suggest Change]

Locate a large chimney arching right to left, almost horizontal. The climb is at the far left where the chimney ends. Scramble off ledge climbers left to descend.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small cams and nuts for start. The roof eats hand size gear.



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