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Hammer and Sickle
M3,
Mixed, Alpine, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
FA: Matt Selman, 2013
Utah
> Central Utah
> Maple Canyon
> Maple Canyon Ice
> Left Hand Fork Ice Cl…
Access Issue: Private Property/Skin or Hike Approach
Details
Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.
The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.
All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.
Description
Dry tooling up the face allows you to mount up on the dagger. This is a very moderate, well-protected introduction to mixed climbing and makes for a great first mixed lead.
Rappel/lower from ring anchors straight up the fall line from the dagger (about 15 left of the pine tree) at about waist level on the rock band.
Location
This route is on the same wall as White Russian, Black Russian, and Ivana Climbalot. Walk up the Left Fork, passing Get Whacked, Smear Campaign, and Fling. This is the last ice on your right before Frog Hop; look for it directly across the canyon from the Belly Flop Slab.
Protection
Three bolts, bring one or two short screws for the top. Two ring anchors for descent.
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