PRINT: Rock Climb Castles Made of Sand, Central Coast

Castles Made of Sand

5.10c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 19 votes
FA: Kelly Rich, Tom Davis 1990
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > E Side > Upper Crust

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:

Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.

SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.

Description

Relatively mild start leads up to the short and definite overhung crux passing the second bolt. After gaining the large knob above second bolt, head toward the top on easy ground.

Location

Far left side of the upper crust area, just to the left of sound chaser and shares a 2 bolt anchor with that route.

Protection

3 bolts and 2 bolt anchor, 3rd bolt has a rap ring on it to facilitate less rope drag while lowering. A large knob could be slung for extra protection between 2nd and 3rd bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alistair Veitch
Mammoth Lakes, CA / Whangar…

5.10+ PG13

I thought this was much harder than 10b (normally I onsight 10+, and I took a fall on this). I would say solid 10- to the first bolt (which makes it PG13 in my book), then powerful 10+ for the crux. Maybe some holds broke? Or I was having a bad day. Jan 22, 2018

Marc Squiddo
Mountain View, CA

5.10c/d PG13

Agree, something broke. Used to be straight forward 10b but now….not so much. Also confused about the Fixe anchor ring bolt above the crux. Jun 5, 2023