Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Table Mountain

Arrow Final T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Jacobs Ladder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touch and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches
FA: C Butler, H Davis, JE Henry, MP Mamacos, GW Rose
Page Views: 3,432 total, 58/month
Shared By: David Crockett on Feb 17, 2013
Admins: Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A must do classic. This route is an excellent introduction the airy traverses found on Table Mountain.

Approach:

Facing the mountain, hike to the far left side of Staircase Ledge. You will have to shuffle around an awkward boulder and step onto a well worn tree. This marks the start of the route.

P1, 12 meters, grade 14. Starting from the tree climb a crack near the arĂȘte until you reach an overhang. Build a cramped belay in the pod below the overhang.

P2, 35 meters, grade 16. From the pod traverse right on a system of parallel horizontal hand cracks and juggy rails. Traverse up and right until you reach a corner. Then look for a vertical crack system. Climb these cracks until they give way to a good belay ledge.

Route finding is a little tricky for me on this pitch. I just climb right and up and hope for the best. If someone has better beta, then please post it in the comments.

P3, 20 meters, grade 15. Shuffle to the left side of the belay ledge. Pull one hard move off the ledge, and then scramble to the summit. Prepare to be heckled by tourists from the cable car.

Location

Check in with the staff at CityRock for better directions to Staircase Ledge, and more information about climbs on Table Mountain. The guidebook unfortunately is out of print, but they are happy to make photocopies for visiting climbers.

Protection

50 meter half ropes are encouraged on Table Mountain because most of the routes require long traverses. In my experience the majority of South Africans use half ropes.

Single rack of cams (BD #0.3 - #3)
Single set of stoppers
Lots of slings
David Crockett
Chattanooga, TN
 
David Crockett   Chattanooga, TN
 
Thanks for the info Martin. I cleaned up my description and included some of your edits. Jul 28, 2013
Martin le Roux
Superior, CO
  5.8
Martin le Roux   Superior, CO
  5.8
Maybe it's not done this way any more, but the original route was done in four pitches (not counting an approach pitch):
P1. Same as Davecro's P1, except I don't remember a semi-hanging belay.
P2. Continue up a juggy crack through the overhang, then traverse left to a stance on a bushy ledge (about 10m, S African grade 15).
P3. Traverse back right past the top of P2, then continue up and right to join Daverco's P2. Alternatively, you could set up a hanging belay at the top of the juggy crack on P2 to avoid traversing left and back right again.
P4. Same as Davecro's P3.

Here's another photo: mountainproject.com/v/10723…

The first ascent was by Mike Mamacos (not "Mamaccs").

For those interested in ancient history I've posted a scan of the original 1952 trip report. They rehearsed the crux on top rope. Tut, tut. May 6, 2013