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Routes in Twin Towers

Chariots on Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cross, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Das Rads S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dillinger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Let's Roll S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Caesar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Release the Lions S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Remember 911 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Roman Holiday S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Roman Road S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speak Life S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stairway to Heaven S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
WMD's and Tinker Toys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: josh horniak / mike carville
Page Views: 1,584 total, 27/month
Shared By: mike carville on Feb 16, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Pitch 1: Cruxy face move at fourth bolt leads to super fun enduro climbing to anchors .11c

Pitch 2: Progressively harder face limbing leads to a boulder move to get established on tricky arete .12a.

Location

Two pitches. Just left of center - Twin Towers.

Protection

bolts
nickls
 
nickls  
 
The last 20 feet of the climb make the loose rock, tricky route finding and dirty holds worth it. The arete is fantastic, good moves and would be hard to onsite. This route doesn't see much traffic and only a small section has been cleaned -- going even slightly off route will mean rocks getting showered onto your partners. One of my foot holds disintegrated and a toaster size block went crashing down. I knocked off a toaster oven sized block of rock

Wear a helmet, warn climbers below and be safe. Nov 13, 2016
Stephen Laird
San Francisco, California
 
Stephen Laird   San Francisco, California
 
Really fun route. I got to agree with the rest of the comments that this climb is still very dirty. Right before the Arete, I went left a bit and saw a microwave size piece of dirty rock that was visibly cracked and looked ready to fall. With just a tad of wiggle I knew it had to go. Making sure no one was below, I pulled this sucker down and it made a thunderous smash below. This route definitely needs more traffic (better yet a rappel from the top to just remove as much loose rock as possible). Until then, I would advise anyone considering climbing this wall to not climb any climbs below this pitch if someone is already attempting the 2nd pitch of this climb. It's a death zone below. Also belaying as far right as possible to avoid rock-fall is a must. Be careful out there. It's chossy. Mar 8, 2015
Rennie Putnam
Davis, CA
Rennie Putnam   Davis, CA
Finally got on the second pitch today, what a fantastic climb. Be careful, as a few key holds are very loose and will come off at some point. Oct 18, 2014
probably so - it's hard to get on the arete and then tricky to stay on it. Apr 26, 2013
Did the second pitch but not clean. I think it might be 11d if you know where to go but the arete is very devious and I was never sure if you should be left or right. Next time!
Great line and pretty wild to be 200 feet up a dead vertical cliff climbing a wild arete in our little local quarry. Nice work. Probably 12a to onsight I think? Apr 22, 2013
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
Another great route, but at the end of the day, I was wasted for the second pitch. It did feel a bit harder than the 12A out front. This one is still dirty too. Should clean up well with some traffic.

Got on this again, and took off another 50 pounds of rock before the arete. There is a good route in there someplace. Getting onto the arete is 11+ or 12 A. Apr 21, 2013
shoot - sorry about that. we figured folks must have been looking at it but due to years of closure figured it fell off the radar. it now has a second pitch .11d. up and left to a big blunt arete to chains. fun route - i think you'll like it! Mar 27, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Oh man, I'm so freakin bummed! I eyeballed this line and started working the first moves a few months ago but never went back to start cleaning and bolting. I got rained out the day I dropped a line down it. Now it sports bolts to the 100ft line almost exactly where I envisioned it would go.

I hope you all are going to work on the second pitch as well, strait through that dihedral thing up high.

Oh well, you snooze ya loose. Can't wait to climb it. Mar 2, 2013