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Routes in Qijin Island

Xin Nian Kuai Le! S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 324 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Feb 14, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

NOTE: Bolts may not be reliable on this route. You have been warned!

Jump the railing down to the beach. This route climbs the first clean face you encounter. Belay next to a large boulder sticking out of the sand. The first bolt is really high (5m), but the climbing is very easy. The route quickly becomes overhanging. Leave the jugs of the crack and move right through big pockets and mantel into the easier middle section. Follow the bolts to the final overhang, move quickly through it, and finish by using the arete. Alternatively, stay on the face til the anchors (11+).

Location

On the beach

Protection

Mechanical bolts, possibly bolted in 2004. Anchor bolts are glue-ins but also look like they may be 304-steel or worse. Falls have been taken safely, but the integrity is definitely questionable.

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