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Routes in Crack Shack

Auditory Hallucination S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Clio Climbing Club T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finger Mill T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mills Dihedral Left T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Withdrawal 5.11a S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dan Seeliger - Spring 2012
Page Views: 216 total · 4/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Feb 13, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Rick Shull, Lurker, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

5. Finger Mill 5.11b 70 m
1p: 5.10a, 20 m. Follow a right-facing dihedral finger crack to bolted anchor.
2p: 5.11c, 20 m. Continue up the finger crack through roofs to bolted anchor.
3p: 5.11b, 20 m. Follow bolts up and slightly left into right facing dihedral. Once you pull out of the overhanging dihedral clip a bolt. Don’t continue up main dihedral. Move left onto a slopey ledge and up past another small roof protected by another bolt and finish on a thin finger crack. Great exposure over last roof before top.

Location

see topo

Protection

Gear: a full rack, extra 0.5 to 1 camalot.

Photos

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While Dan rated this 11b, The crank off of a very high undercling and tenuous stem to a jug at the crux felt like a solid V4 move. While this move was definately the crux and the rest of the route was a grade or so easier, calling this 11b or 11c felt like a sandbag to me. There's a bolt at your waist here, but that move is BURLY. Feb 13, 2013