Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: JSt, EFR, '05
Page Views: 455 total · 6/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Feb 9, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A really fun mixed route on the King formation. Start in corner with bolt, plug a few pieces, and move right to left-facing corner. Jam (!) through the crux on good gear and pull out roof via satisfying laybacks. Some face climbing past 2 bolts puts you at the anchor.

Location

On the King, 2 routes left of Fool's Gambit. Starts in a right-facing corner.

Protection

A few bolts, and a set of stoppers and doubles of cams from fingers to #2 BD and a single #3 BD will get you up with gear to spare.

Photos

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J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
Single rack of metolious small purple to large blue plus rack of nuts and several long draws did me right. The rock is questionable in places - I broke a foothold on the short traverse to the crack, so nuts may be particularly good on this one. At the roof I could reach up and place a little purple metolious and then run it to the bolt. Easier climbing but you would not want to blow the clip. Really fun moves! Oct 18, 2015