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Routes in 2 - King

At the queens pleasure S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bobby Fissure T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fool's Gambit, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gamesmanship S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
King of Slots S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
King's Arete S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King's Ransom S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Little King, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Serfs up S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Win, Lose, No Draws S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: JSt, EFR, '05
Page Views: 443 total · 6/month
Shared By: Clay Mansfield on Feb 9, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

A really fun mixed route on the King formation. Start in corner with bolt, plug a few pieces, and move right to left-facing corner. Jam (!) through the crux on good gear and pull out roof via satisfying laybacks. Some face climbing past 2 bolts puts you at the anchor.

Location

On the King, 2 routes left of Fool's Gambit. Starts in a right-facing corner.

Protection

A few bolts, and a set of stoppers and doubles of cams from fingers to #2 BD and a single #3 BD will get you up with gear to spare.

Photos

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JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c
Single rack of metolious small purple to large blue plus rack of nuts and several long draws did me right. The rock is questionable in places - I broke a foothold on the short traverse to the crack, so nuts may be particularly good on this one. At the roof I could reach up and place a little purple metolious and then run it to the bolt. Easier climbing but you would not want to blow the clip. Really fun moves! Oct 18, 2015

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