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Routes in The Spike

Normal Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 197 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dan Carter on Feb 9, 2013
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

We climbed what seems to be a variation to the Normal Route described by Ingrahm. It begins in a corner that has had recent rock fall, creating the route. It climbs a layback crack up the corner and turns out onto the north face of the Spike. Follow a left trending crack and lichen face up to a steep crack and a notch just below the summit. One can belay from this summit but it needs some anchors installed.

Location

Begin the route on the west side of the Spike. Scramble up a bit and look for the brown corner. We left a rappel anchor on top but it needs to be replaced with some bolts for a better belay and rap station. One can rap off the south side of the Spike.

Protection

There is a fixed hex in the crack on the north face but I wouldn't use it. A single rack with doubles in hand size cams will sew this route up nicely.

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