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Routes in Bird's Nest

Armbuster TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Armbuster Descent Route T,TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Bird's Nest T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eagle's Nest TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Face Flop'n T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fair Square T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Man's Route, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Middle of the Road TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
One Lane Highway T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Plumb Line T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rumble Strip TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Shoulder of the Road TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two-Lane Highway TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Z-slash TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Don Hubbard 1942 (TR), Chris Scoredos (led)1944
Page Views: 2,045 total, 35/month
Shared By: Victor K on Feb 6, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

Proceed up a crack in a prominent dihedral, over a slight bulge to easier ground. Go up under a huge roof to a positive horizontal hand traverse with thin feet and go right to the end of the roof. Turn the corner and proceed to top, or, lower from there.

Location

Follow ramp from cliff top past several large steps until you reach the river's edge and a large alcove facing upriver.

Protection

No fixed gear. Can be top roped. Due to the large roof, it is very hard to get back on the route if you come off the upper half.

Photos

Elliott Becker
Washington, DC
Elliott Becker   Washington, DC
From Up Rope, July 25, 1945:
This climb is on one of the
highest sections of the cliffs between
Great Falls, Virginia, and
Echo Cliffs. Mid-way between the
stone quarry and Juliet's Balcony,
is a 50-foot vertical inside corner
closed at the top by a severely
overhanging shelf. The climb is an
"A" climb as a lead, a "B" with a rope
from above. It has been variously
known as the 2, the 5, and the 6-
Piton lead. In the corner generous
use of the "opposition of forces"
Principle brings the climber above
the bulge in the cliff. Simple
face technique on the upstream wall
then carries him on to the bird's
nest corner, directly under the
Overhang. Here he traverses right,
Using under hand holds in a- crack
below the overhang and small footholds
on the face below. The footholds
give out in the critical position.
At the same spot the angle
of the face increases sharply, but
continued use of the under-layback
will carry the climber one step
farther. His hand can now reach
around the corner of the overhanging
block and pull him up into the
final easy pitch to the summit.
In August 1942 Paul Bradt
led the pioneer work upon this
climb. Don Hubbard, later in the
first completed the climb
wltb. a rope from above, using a piton and
carabiner in the undercut
crack for artificial aid. Don,
Chris Scoredos, Arnold Wexler, and
Sterling Hendricks, on June 4, 1944,
set up this climb as a piton lead
using6 pitons, and Chris made the
first lead with one slip and a
masterly recovery from the layback.
Arnold followed Chris to the top.
Dolores Alley is to date the only
woman who has made the climb. May 19, 2016