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Routes in Upper Canyon

Abe's Oddysee V6 7A PG13
Highway, The V8-9 7B+ PG13
OG Arete SDS V7 7A+
Original Generation Arete V6 7A
Pita Chip Stick Clip V0 4
Roadhouse Blues V6- 7A
Rumspringa V3-4 6A+
Seams To Me V5-6 6C+
Soon I Will Be Gone V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Sean Denny
Page Views: 324 total, 6/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Feb 6, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start crouched with both hands in the angled seam. Climb through an engaging mix of physical and balancy movements straight up to the summit. Do not bail left underneath the shallow roof once you reach the crimps.

This is one of my favorite climbs in the entire SB area, but that is likely due as much to the climbing as the amount of effort it took to clean and solve this problem.

Similar to the Conch, I have a hard time determining the difficulty of this problem. It is unlike most other climbs in SB, and hence I don't have much to compare it to. Second, third, fourth, etc. opinions would be most welcome.

Location

On the same boulder as Ballet Lessons, but on the opposite (inland facing/North) side. From The Brute follow the trail downhill towards the base of the canyon. This problem will be on your left as you walk down the hill. About 40 feet downhill from the Brute Boulder.

Protection

Pads and Spotter

Photos

Sean Denny
Irvine
 
Sean Denny   Irvine
 
Prime conditions definitely help. The move left to the sloping edge is waaaaaayyy harder when its not cold. Feb 17, 2013
Tim King  
 
Nice work on this one, Sean! Got a few peeps out there today to check it out. No full send (broke a piece off that upper crescent crimp which foiled the send; shouldn't affect difficulty), but solid V7 seems about right (report back after clean send). And in warm conditions, good luck...

Powerful, delicate, balancy, awkward... Great climb! Especially once it's fully cleaned up, a new classic Potters Point problem.

edit: Prime conditions certainly help on this problem... Feb 7, 2013