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Routes in Primal Wall Area

American Life S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Apollos Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Ranger T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SGT Baker T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southbound Pachyderm T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Things that Shouldn't be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 170 ft
FA: Ron Yahne
Page Views: 259 total, 4/month
Shared By: Boots McGoots on Feb 6, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Climb 10ft right of the pillar, following the large chickenheads and crystals to the vertical cracks. From mid-station anchors, follow large crystals and bolts to the anchors

Location

65' to climbers right of the high point. Locate the large pillar/flake: the route starts 10ft right of this

Protection

Red C#-#3, nuts, 8 bolts

Photos

Jim Slichter
Hill City, SD
  5.9
Jim Slichter   Hill City, SD
  5.9
Did this climb over the July 4th weekend and definitely agree with Wilson's comments. The rock is dirty and of questionable quality almost the whole way up. The climbing above the mid point anchors is much better than the first part of the route but still not worthy of a two star route. Jul 8, 2013
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
  5.9
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
  5.9
American Life is 4 stars in the guide book and after climbing and thoroughly enjoying it I thought I would give this, Sgt Baker, supposed 3 star route, a try. I would say don't even bother. The route is covered in moss, lichen, and dirt. The only 5.9 move comes after the 3rd bolt and once you get into the vertical cracks you run into some real chossy rock and you have to work your way around the greenery. I didn't bother finishing the climb after the mid-point anchors but it didn't look like it got much better. Now don't get me wrong, with more traffic and a thorough rain storm to clean this up it could be fun, just not for me right now. Also, a 60meter will just, just barely, get you down from the mid-point anchors. May 10, 2013