PRINT: Rock Climb Fall Line, Central Oregon

Fall Line

5.13-, Trad, 95 ft (29 m),

Avg: 4 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Trout Creek > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure 2020 UPDATE/Private Land Boundaries Details

2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Trout Creek is open to climbing on May 15, 2020. The Golden Eagles have nested on the Warm Springs side of the formation.

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURE TAKES EFFECT JAN 15 EACH YEAR. Climbers have demonstrated 100% compliance rate and must continue. Violators are subject to a ticket and fine. The BLM will be monitoring the territory, which includes all of the crags and the approach trails. The closure could be partially lifted May 15th, depending on the nesting scenarios.

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

blm.gov/or/districts/prinev…

ADJACENT PRIVATE LAND

Please respect adjacent private landowners. While the climbing area is mainly BLM, a portion of the cliff and access may be on private property. However the entirety of the Main Wall is public with a solid buffer of space before the boundary, so you are allowed to access up above that wall. Please be aware of the rest of the private land above the cliff though. Local climbers have established a positive relationship with the adjacent private property owners and it is important to maintain their trust for long-term access.

Description

Fall Line is amazing and one of the region's best pure sustained thin cracks. No move is probably any harder than honest .11+, and few are much easier. With so many thin locks and sharp stone, finger skin is a limiting factor. Some locks opened up and many became less sharp over 4-5 days of climbing on this.

Comparing ratings between areas and climbing styles doesn't seem as helpful as trying to be internally consistent at a given crag. This route is a significantly harder send than Winter Sustenance, Reservation Blues, or May Fly. But it is an endurance climb without anything harder than ~V4 and is finger size dependent.
take any suggested grade with a grain of salt and just enjoy the climb if it's 5.11 or 5.13.

Location

The tips and fingers crack that is the next route left of JR Token - finish up the JR Extention to the anchors on the top of the mesa. You want a 70m to TR this (a 60 might work with some shenanigans and attentive belaying.)

Protection

Lots of small cams and mid-sized wires. Nothing bigger than a yellow alien unless it's for the 5.10 climbing near the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Fall Line

Fall Line in perfect Fall light.

Fall Line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

My .02: This line is killer. A stout line at a stout crag. Imagine moving into the pod on Alchemy for 60' interrupted by two rests and you start to get the idea. Feels harder than Full Clip, the only other route like it at TC. Full Clip has easier moves overall but less rest. Also, harder to me than Mayfly. Seems like 13- would be fair. Lastly, this thing takes medium stoppers well. Worth sussing for the redpoint. Feb 16, 2013