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Routes in Chair Peak

East Face T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13
NE Buttress of Chair Peak AI2-3 Mod. Snow
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Type: Ice, Snow, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,613 total · 66/month
Shared By: Abandoned User on Feb 4, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Aawait  
I had some fun on this in the summer, easy 5th/4th! Aug 12, 2013
Cat Cahoon
Seattle, WA
Cat Cahoon   Seattle, WA
Started by climbing the hidden ramp up and right to a mixed bit (placed cams and clipped some fixed pins) and belayed in the trees. Then a long pitch to the base of the ice step (we had a 70m and still simuled some). This pitch protected well with small cams and a picket. The ice was vertical for a body length or so and in good shape. Last pitch was pure snow climbing to the crest. Glad to have a 70m for the raps. (climbed 1/2/16) Jan 31, 2016
My opinion of this route as a summer climb is that it is a step up from the nearby Tooth, in length and adventure factor. The climbing is all very easy, but the upper half of the route gets quite loose and it can be challenging to find acceptable anchors on a pitch or two if you are belaying. Protection is generally good on anything harder than 4th class, though I did feel a bit run out on one steeper and exposed section. Come prepared to build and reinforce rappel stations on the descent as they may not be everywhere you want them or well maintained. Getting around any remaining steep snow at the base of the rap gully may require additional downclimbing or rappels. Loose rock is the name of the game and you do not want anyone above you anywhere on this route. We experienced some very close calls during the descent when another party behind us knocked down rocks, which is very hard to avoid. Jul 18, 2018

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