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Routes in Crankenstein

About Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
All Hail Broke Loose S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ant Encouters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Apprehension S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Back Off Crack T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolt Happy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bolted like Riemer's S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crankenstien S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Die Hard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dude, where's my hammer? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Gang Bang S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Grass Attack S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Industrial Disease S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mona Peligrosa S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
More Wasabi S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pearl S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Santeria S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunday Mass S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Teenage Parties S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
War on Rugs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wife in the Fast Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
You Bet Arete S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Mark Pell and Bret Ramsey
Page Views: 145 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dave E on Feb 4, 2013
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Start in the dihedral left of the arete. Bolts 1 and 2 are just right of the arete. R rating unless stick clipping Bolt 2.

Protection

4 bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
BrianLee
Austin, Texas
  5.11c/d
BrianLee   Austin, Texas
  5.11c/d
Obviously this route doesn't receive much traffic, apparent by the ferns growing up the dihederal and the still bits of *chossy blocks near the third bolt. I gave this route three stars because I do think that once it's cleaned up a bit the line could be a classic, 5.11c/d.

It offers dihederal climbing(with stemming stances better than jade), to pulling two roofs.

  • If you are the belayer stay away from the possible loose blocks trajectory near the third bolt:)
Apr 6, 2015
Mark Pell  
 
This route has been credited in several guides to Kevin Gallagher but was actually put in by me and Bret Ramsey in the early-mid 1990s. Kevin may have installed the single bolt above and left of the route's present anchor location to inspect or toprope the line but apparently he never cleaned or climbed it or installed protection bolts. It remained abandoned for at least two years before Bret and I cleaned and bolted it. If Kevin would like to discuss this matter I invite him to contact me here on Mtn. Proj. by email. Jan 10, 2015
Clint Walker ATX
Austin, TX
 
Clint Walker ATX   Austin, TX
 
I don't know what to say about this route other than today was the first time I've ever not been able to do a single move on a route. Maybe I'm having withdrawals from my recent trip to HCR and the sandstone or maybe I had an off day on route finding but I was thrown off this route time and time again today. I had to rap off the 5th bolt and retreat in defeat.

For the grade I can honestly say I've been humbled. I would love to see someone, anyone, climb this route and make it look like an 11c. Apr 21, 2014