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The Renegade

5.13b/c, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: FFA Todd Skinner/ Alan Watts 1986
California > Yosemite NP > Lower Merced Ri… > h. Cookie Area > Cookie Cliff
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This stunning thin crack starts out hard with sustained 5.12- climbing up to a large Xenolith. A few tough moves get you established on the large foothold at the first bolt. From here the climbing becomes 5.13 in a hurry and within 5 feet all good footholds vanish. (Rumor says a useful foothold for the top section broke in the last 5 years).

Torque on the tiny pin scars, wishing that your fingers were smaller, and relish the idea that there are two good holds in the final 40 feet. Seems to be pretty solid 5.13 climbing.

This route is often used to for clean aid practice. You can test out body weight placements on the upper half, backed up by the free climbing bolts.

Location

This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.

A top rope can be setup on this climb by doing the Enigma and rappelling or lowering from the a bolted anchor. You will need to swing a ways to the left. Clipping a few draws on the midway anchor and bolts will help get you to the Stigma anchor.

Protection

Thin gear leads to two spaced bolts protecting the crux section. Bolted anchor with lower-off biners.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Todd Skinner on The Stigma (5.13), Yosemite Valley<br>
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Photo: Skinner Collection
[Hide Photo] Todd Skinner on The Stigma (5.13), Yosemite Valley Photo: Skinner Collection
Alan Watts near the end of the Stigma. Photo by Jeff Smoot
[Hide Photo] Alan Watts near the end of the Stigma. Photo by Jeff Smoot
Dave Schultz entering the first hard section of The Stigma
[Hide Photo] Dave Schultz entering the first hard section of The Stigma
Alan Watts on the second ascent of The Stigma. Photo by Jeff Smoot
[Hide Photo] Alan Watts on the second ascent of The Stigma. Photo by Jeff Smoot

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
  5.13b/c
[Hide Comment] This was originally a three pitch aid route. Only the first pitch goes free. The second pitch, rated A3, is only ~50-75 feet and has many fixed copper heads to two bolt anchor(good hardware). Not sure about pitch three.

Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Feb 4, 2013
[Hide Comment] Since this climb is listed as a free climb rated 5.13, it should use the name of the free version, "The Renegade".

The Stigma is the aid climb. Apr 25, 2014