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The Renegade
5.13b/c,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
FA: FFA Todd Skinner/ Alan Watts 1986
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Lower Merced Ri…
> Aj. Cookie Area
> Cookie Cliff
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This stunning thin crack starts out hard with sustained 5.12- climbing up to a large Xenolith. A few tough moves get you established on the large foothold at the first bolt. From here the climbing becomes 5.13 in a hurry and within 5 feet all good footholds vanish. (Rumor says a useful foothold for the top section broke in the last 5 years).
Torque on the tiny pin scars, wishing that your fingers were smaller, and relish the idea that there are two good holds in the final 40 feet. Seems to be pretty solid 5.13 climbing.
This route is often used to for clean aid practice. You can test out body weight placements on the upper half, backed up by the free climbing bolts.
Location
This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.
A top rope can be setup on this climb by doing the Enigma and rappelling or lowering from the a bolted anchor. You will need to swing a ways to the left. Clipping a few draws on the midway anchor and bolts will help get you to the Stigma anchor.
Protection
Thin gear leads to two spaced bolts protecting the crux section. Bolted anchor with lower-off biners.
[Hide Photo] Todd Skinner on The Stigma (5.13), Yosemite Valley Photo: Bill Hatcher
[Hide Photo] Alan Watts near the end of the Stigma. Photo by Jeff Smoot
[Hide Photo] Alan Watts on the second ascent of The Stigma. Photo by Jeff Smoot
[Hide Photo] Dave Schultz entering the first hard section of The Stigma
Seattle, WA
Some Route History:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Feb 4, 2013
Berkeley, CA
The Stigma is the aid climb. Apr 25, 2014
Bishop