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Trad, 100 ft,
Avg: 3 from 3
FA: FFA Todd Skinner/ Alan Watts 1986
> Yosemite NP
> Lower Merced Ri…
> h. Cookie Area
> Cookie Cliff
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
This stunning thin crack starts out hard with sustained 5.12- climbing up to a large Xenolith. A few tough moves get you established on the large foothold at the first bolt. From here the climbing becomes 5.13 in a hurry and within 5 feet all good footholds vanish. (Rumor says a useful foothold for the top section broke in the last 5 years).
Torque on the tiny pin scars, wishing that your fingers were smaller, and relish the idea that there are two good holds in the final 40 feet. Seems to be pretty solid 5.13 climbing.
This route is often used to for clean aid practice. You can test out body weight placements on the upper half, backed up by the free climbing bolts.
This is the first route encountered on the approach trail to the Cookie Cliff. It is located between Catchy and The Enigma. It is an obvious thin seam.
A top rope can be setup on this climb by doing the Enigma and rappelling or lowering from the a bolted anchor. You will need to swing a ways to the left. Clipping a few draws on the midway anchor and bolts will help get you to the Stigma anchor.
Thin gear leads to two spaced bolts protecting the crux section. Bolted anchor with lower-off biners.