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My Sweet Alecia Marie
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Main Castle View Crag
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Bulls On Parade T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Jeffery Traverse, The V3 6A PG13 |
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My Sweet Alecia Marie T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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My Sweet Alecia Marie (Bouldering Variation V1) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V1 5 X |
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Training Wheels TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | MountainManny |
| Page Views: | 242 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | MountainManny on Feb 4, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Protection
3 Bolts and Gear to Anchors with rap rings.
Protect the crack before committing to the slab and clipping the first bolt.
I suggest not running it out from deck to the first bolt, this route was put up with the crack being totally considered...Pro Needs Placed Prior To Bolt #1
Sew up the crack with just about anything, it flares and takes everything from micros up to hand-sized pieces.
Longer draw/sling for the second bolt will help with rope drag and directing your rope on the traverse to the anchors.
You can put a piece in the horizontal crack if are worrying about the mantle up to the second bolt...a #1 Big Bro works very nicely.
Kindly TR on your own gear.
Protect the crack before committing to the slab and clipping the first bolt.
I suggest not running it out from deck to the first bolt, this route was put up with the crack being totally considered...Pro Needs Placed Prior To Bolt #1
Sew up the crack with just about anything, it flares and takes everything from micros up to hand-sized pieces.
Longer draw/sling for the second bolt will help with rope drag and directing your rope on the traverse to the anchors.
You can put a piece in the horizontal crack if are worrying about the mantle up to the second bolt...a #1 Big Bro works very nicely.
Kindly TR on your own gear.
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