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5.11c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Mike Freischlag, 1996? Kevin Murphy?
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Field of Dreams

Description

Wow, what a really really nice route for its grade, although the rock at bottom is a little flaky, the rest of the route is solid and of great quality.

Just before the end of the crack, reach into the back of the crack for better holds and jam to top of crack. It is a pump, and the crack exit is no piece of cake.

Traverse the ledge to the right and begin a series of crimpers and sidepulls diagonaling right. Traverse back left at the 11c crux which isn't much harder than what you've just climbed. From the last bolt, move up and left, get to the holds below the anchors, switch feet, and try and make the clip. Good luck! An awesome pitch!

Location

Start at the big, right-facing corner, continue to face above.

Protection

A red Camalot (#1) and couple of nuts or Aliens at the start before you reach the first bolt. There are a total of 11 bolts after that and 2 bolt anchor at top. We left the "fixed" nut in place.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Feeling the pump, am I getting too old for this at 56, trying to onsight 11c?
[Hide Photo] Feeling the pump, am I getting too old for this at 56, trying to onsight 11c?

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

kevin murphy
Longtuckity, CO
[Hide Comment] Holy crap, I remember that climb. I think I got the FA, and that's my nut. Great to hear people go up there. It took a lot of work to get those routes in. Mike Fresh was the ring leader. I need to put more routes up, that was a great summer. Feb 3, 2013