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The Smiley Problem

V5, Boulder, 10 ft (3 m),  Avg: 3 from 7 votes
FA: unknown
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Tompson St Rese… > Cavalry Boulder… > 2. Central Sector > Cavalry Boulder

Description

This line looks like a smiley face, and you will certainly smile after sending it. Sit start with matched hands on the smiley rail, pull to the "nose", and pop to the "YES" holds at the top.

Location

This problem is all the way around the backside of the Calvery Block(s), set in a comfortable nook where the bouder meets the bedrock.

Protection

Pad.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kelsey working "Smiley" while Pat's head pokes up from the finish of "Sandman".
[Hide Photo] Kelsey working "Smiley" while Pat's head pokes up from the finish of "Sandman".
The Smiley Problem.
[Hide Photo] The Smiley Problem.
"Smiley" proper.
[Hide Photo] "Smiley" proper.
Smiley Problem.
[Hide Photo] Smiley Problem.
Getting on this hard problem.
[Hide Photo] Getting on this hard problem.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
[Hide Comment] Natti and I worked on it, and when he got it, he liked V4. Isn't everything on Cape Ann V4? Plenty of local sand around to stuff them bags full! Regardless, great problem that's sunny, high, and usually dry. Nov 11, 2013
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
[Hide Comment] That move from the smiley rail to the left sidepull is brutal. I'm missing something. Feels harder than I recall! Mar 26, 2018
Nick Pellegrino
North Reading
  V5
[Hide Comment] Thought this one was hard, especially if you are shorter, but maybe I wasn’t using the right feet/beta.

Beta video (minor dab included): m.youtube.com/watch?v=5gc7m…. Mar 28, 2020
PatMontague
  V5
[Hide Comment] Nick's beta will work if you like dynamic movement. When I did it, I got my left hand on the left side of the flake, then walked my feet through and with a lot of tension I brought my right hand up to the jug on top of the flake. Mar 31, 2020
Old Timer
North Andover MA
V5
[Hide Comment] Hard V5 especially if you are a shorter climber. Mar 31, 2020