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Routes in Chaos Creek

Bobsled, The T WI4+
Luge (aka Curling), The T WI3-4
Olympic Trials T WI3
Shaqtoolik T M6+
Slalom Skiing T WI5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andy Sterns and Matt Klick
Page Views: 642 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matt Klick on Jan 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

P1: A striking crack takes solid tool cams but with sketchy feet, especially as it moves out of a shallow alcove. A hand jam might help here. It's a cruxy start! Then get better tool strikes on hummock/dirt and chockstones above, with a rest halfway up. Make a few more moves in the crack before angling slightly left on good hooks and up over a small roof to a tree belay. It is sustained, pumpy, and engaging climbing.

P2: Immediately above the tree belay is an obvious, black corner. This is thin! It requires more delicate face climbing with adequate pro, but small, and sometimes hidden. Power over the last roof to snowy ledges and another tree belay.

Location

This climb faces south but is located on what is otherwise N-S cliffs slightly uphill and south of the winter trail between Nymph and Chaos. We followed a skin track that heads over to lower Chaos and up. In this case, the cliff would be on your right, and Shaqtoolik around the first corner you'd encounter.

Protection

P1: eats up all sorts of cams - mostly 0.75s, 1s, 2s, and a 3 (a 0.75 protects the last few roofs moves to the belay - a big evergreen on a ledge).

P2: is more delicate - smallest Aliens and small nuts before a chockstone or horn sling before pulling onto the ledges and another tree belay. The pro is not always obvious.

Photos

Matt Klick  
 
Glad you got after this, CA. Yeah, it was ballistically cold when we did it -- no hand jams. That would make the difference (see the thread below -- it started out as M7 but was knocked down a bit). Nov 6, 2017
Captain America
Longmont, CO
Captain America   Longmont, CO
Great route, though I felt it a little sandbagged. The first pitch is super pumpy and without hand jams is solid M7. It was chilly when we did it. If Bullett is M6+, this is a grade harder with a slight overhang on tools and just as thin feet. P2 is A short but fun climb, wouldn't want to test the gear though! May 1, 2017
Matt Klick  
 
Thanks, Josh, for climbing it and a reality check on grading (a taste we're still acquiring) -- as well as adding some beta on the tricky P2! Hope to keep seeing you guys around the Park. Mar 11, 2013
This is a nice little route with a quick approach. Thanks for posting it, Matt and Andy! The first pitch seemed like well protected M6-ish climbing, although we had the benefit of a very sunny day, which let us hand jam without issue. The second pitch (maybe M5-ish) is a bit heads up, especially with the ledge so close below. A piton, or beak, might be nice, and would make the pitch safe. There's potential for a very hard, steep, trad protected M-route just to the left of this route. Mar 10, 2013