Type: Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Andy Sterns and Matt Klick
Page Views: 761 total · 10/month
Shared By: Matt Klick on Jan 28, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

P1: A striking crack takes solid tool cams but with sketchy feet, especially as it moves out of a shallow alcove. A hand jam might help here. It's a cruxy start! Then get better tool strikes on hummock/dirt and chockstones above, with a rest halfway up. Make a few more moves in the crack before angling slightly left on good hooks and up over a small roof to a tree belay. It is sustained, pumpy, and engaging climbing.

P2: Immediately above the tree belay is an obvious, black corner. This is thin! It requires more delicate face climbing with adequate pro, but small, and sometimes hidden. Power over the last roof to snowy ledges and another tree belay.

Location

This climb faces south but is located on what is otherwise N-S cliffs slightly uphill and south of the winter trail between Nymph and Chaos. We followed a skin track that heads over to lower Chaos and up. In this case, the cliff would be on your right, and Shaqtoolik around the first corner you'd encounter.

Protection

P1: eats up all sorts of cams - mostly 0.75s, 1s, 2s, and a 3 (a 0.75 protects the last few roofs moves to the belay - a big evergreen on a ledge).

P2: is more delicate - smallest Aliens and small nuts before a chockstone or horn sling before pulling onto the ledges and another tree belay. The pro is not always obvious.

Photos