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Routes in Berkeley Camp Rocks

First Stage S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Flu S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Leflie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Jersey Turnpike S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Salt Water Flush S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 Arete S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Witch Doctor S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 146 total, 2/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Jan 28, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep face climbing on edges and flakes to a roof about 3/4 of the way up. Listed in the Supertopo guide as 5.12b.

Location

Starts to the right of Flu and pulls through the obvious roof.

Protection

5 bolts to chains

Photos

Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.12b
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
  5.12b
5.12b (maybe a bit soft) if you finish through the roof, and 3 star movement

I did a link up last summer finishing up the dihedral (TR'd, need a couple TCUs for a safe lead), which clocks in around 5.12c with that second low % thin crux. Mar 15, 2016
BrianWS
 
BrianWS  
 
Felt light for 12b.

As of summer 2012, the face was streaked with an odd, slick, white deposit, and some of the flakes and cracks were lightly seeping. Fingers smelt bad after this climb -- perhaps some sort of runoff and drip from the camp's plumbing? Either way, it detracted the overall quality of an otherwise fun sport route. Jan 28, 2013