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Routes in Phipps Park

Best Crack in Bozeman, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Big Eagle Feather T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carona Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gardner, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Acres T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Purple Pinky Eater T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slapstick Traverse V4 6B
Ugly Step Sister TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,261 total, 21/month
Shared By: MTKirk on Jan 27, 2013
Admins: grk10vq

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Description

Amazing splitter crack! (topped by 15' of junk) Start by pulling a roof on thin hands, cruise up the easier thin hands section on good poddy feet, place some good cams, take a deep breath, and blast through a right leaning section of rattly fingers with imaginary footholds. Then try not to fall before clipping a draw into one of the pieces of mank that passes for a mid anchor (or better yet hang a second rope down from the excellent anchors at the top of the cliff). An amazing climb with great protection. I highly recommend going for the onsight. In the likely event you fall, it will be on good gear with a clean fall zone. The climb has a category 4 walk up/down 30' to climbers left.

Location

Look for an amazing splitter in a lone buttress of sandstone. It's on your left as you hike up the jeep trail from the parking lot. Location 45.81161,-108.686176.

Protection

Camalots from #2 down to .4, heavy on the 1 to .5 range. Has an Excellent top anchor (but mortal people can't lead to it) and a sketchy looking mid anchor (I don't use this). You can lower off your last piece & clean it later on rap from the top, or hang a second rope down in the first place.

Photos

MTKirk
Billings, MT
 
MTKirk   Billings, MT
 
Agreed, this has harder moves than any 11 I've been on at the Creek. On the other hand it's pretty darn short. Joel has this as 11b in his guidebook & that's where I got the rating. I'd say ratings in Billings are more in line with those at Devils Tower & a little harder than those at the Creek. Nov 20, 2013
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
What a fantastic crack climb! I didn't place a #2, 1s to .75s to .5s (2-3 of each would really sew it up). You could place something smaller near the midway anchor, but if you're like me you are probably redlining at this point, so maybe best to just gun it!

Seemed a little hard for .11b compared to Indian Creek climbs of similar sizes. On a later TR I did a quasi-lieback through the purple camalot section at the top which made it feel more like solid .11, but straight-in jamming thru it felt more like a .11+ type of challenge. Oct 27, 2013