Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Jay Shultis, Alexandra Higgins, Mark Rineer
Page Views: 909 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jay Shultis on Jan 26, 2013
Admins: Jay Shultis

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Leading this route is a bit heady out the gate but the gear gets better as you go. Climb a 30' slabby buttress up it's left side to a 20' face above. Exit into a narrow gully to the right of a small cherry tree growing out of the rock. This will keep you out of the briars for the topout. Belay and rappel from a huge tree on the right side of the gully. Originally covered in rock tripe, Mark Rineer and I cleaned this in 2003 thinking it would probably need a couple bolts, it appears to be staying fairly clean and climbs cleanly on gear. Crux mantle to get on the route and one tricky section of face climbing off the high ledge near the finish.

Location

Located 20' left of Fat City on a 15' wide buttress. 20' R of trick or Treat dihedral corner crack.

Protection

Lots of interesting gear, but it is all small. I would reccomend double of smaller sizes for a ground up on-sight. I used a mix of small BD C4's & X4's (all 0.5 or smaller) as well as a couple decent ball nuts for the topout after the crux. A 0.1 X4 or small C3's would work for the finish if you do not have ball-nuts. There is a marginal Blue X4 placement in a shallow pod 10' up on the route, after that you can double up on 0.2 cams in the overlap that is in the middle of the slab. This section is not hard but could be the mental crux due to blind/marginal placements.

Photos