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In Water There Is Life

5.11b, Sport, 165 ft (50 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 30 votes
FA: Scott Ayers, Andrew McCalister & John Diaz
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > W Stronghold > Sheepshead Area… > Muttonhead

Description

The third pitch of this route is a stunning left-facing corner climbed in a sustained stem. This pitch alone is one of the best on the formation. Check out the position in the photo on the cover of the West Side Guidebook.

Start at the highest point up the descent gully at the base of the upper E face.

P1-Climb the obvious green water-stain straight up to the anchor. 5.11-, 70'

P2-This is more of transfer pitch to get below the corner above. Pass the 3 bolts on the steep face to gain the ledge. 5.9, 45'

P3-The money pitch...get after it. 5.11-, 50'

Check out the companion route "In Vino Veritas" downhill for a complete Doc Holiday movie trivia.

Location

Short steep green lichen streak on the south face just before you reach the saddle between Muttonhead and Sheepshead.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jimbo sending the streak.
[Hide Photo] Jimbo sending the streak.
P3 of In Water There is Life
[Hide Photo] P3 of In Water There is Life
Climbers on pitch one
[Hide Photo] Climbers on pitch one
Route Overlay.
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay.
Pitch 3.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3.
Pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2.
Looking up start of Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Looking up start of Pitch 1.
Pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1.
Nick on the send of p3 of In Water There is Life
[Hide Photo] Nick on the send of p3 of In Water There is Life
View from the pitch 3 belay
[Hide Photo] View from the pitch 3 belay

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] 10 bolts of thought-provoking varied climbing with a tough finish.

This is actually a 3 pitch sport route. While I have not climbed the other pitches, the second pitch is approximately 5.9 and the third pitch is approximately 11- and looks awesome. Jan 25, 2013
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] The third pitch of this route is an excellent stemming corner. From the top of Pitch 1, the leader can continue up and slightly right over easy 3rd class terrain to a group of small trees; here it may be possible to belay off of the trees+gear (we came in later from the saddle after realizing that there was a 2nd and 3rd pitch). Climb the short approach "pitch" (5.9) and gain a ledge with bolt anchors to the left. Climb the exceptional corner! All pitches are well bolted, but you might bring up something to supplement the trees for the first belay. Jan 2, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] More loose bolt comments??? Try carrying a 9/16ths wrench all the time and tighten them when you find them. It is everyones job to maintain this stuff. Anchors always wiggle in the hole when the nut is not tight. Wedge anchors are slightly smaller than their hole and thus will wiggle if the nut is loose. Nov 29, 2020