Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,061 total · 15/month
Shared By: J. Snyder on Jan 21, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Little history is known about this Nor.AZ classic. J.Mattson was rumored to have climbed the left variation and at some point the right variation was aid climbed by an unknown party (J.M.? J.Gaun?). Until recently there was still a fixed stopper and a worthless "bashie" in the upper headwall. Any prior FFA of the right variation is unknown.

Start just right of the "pit of doom", climb up and traverse over to chossy, nest filled huecos above "pit of doom". Place a marginal piece in choss pod and climb through dangerous and unpredictable terrain to good ledge. A fall above the "pit of doom" is not an option and will result in injury.

Place good but small gear and climb steep crack to splitter off fingers. Continue up splitter off fingers (5.11) to a decision point.

Option 1: Make a hero move left to climb fingers in a flake to hands (5.10ish, Rad!)

Option 2: Plug small cams and plunge into the powerful and strenuous boulder problem that splits the upper headwalls' orange shield. Use a series of power pinches, strenuous laybacking and tip-locks to gun into a resolution hand jam. There is no gear during the crux sequence but though the fall is big, it is clean.

I was able to red point on 10/1/2012 after many failed attempts and resulting whipper therapy. M.Swartz repeated a month later

Location

Obvious orange headwall-shield above "pit of doom".

Protection

Gear used on red point:
.4 C4 24" runner
Red#0 C3 12" runner
.4 C4
.5 C4
.5 C4
2x Red#0 C3 equalized with two 12" runners
Bolted anchor

  • Optional hands piece for finish

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
That second paragraph is just about the least appealing route description I've ever read. It's likely accurate, and quite hysterical, but still just yucky. Just one more reason to be really happy that I am not capable of climbing .12R. Nov 29, 2016
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
"Just one more reason to be really happy that I am not capable of climbing .12R."

LMFAO. Riiigghhhhhtttt Dec 7, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Doesn't stop you from commenting on them though! Dec 7, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12
Buy 100' Chain. Hang Chain. Clip QDS to Chain where you want. Lead Climbing.

Or bring up like 25 crash pads. Dec 9, 2016
^ *Like* Dec 9, 2016
J. Snyder
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12
J. Snyder   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12
I paint all of my chain. I like how it smells. Dec 9, 2016
Scott Krankkala
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott Krankkala   Flagstaff, AZ
Where is the 5.12 climbing? From the description it sounds like the left variation is 5.11r Jul 30, 2017