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Routes in Omega Buttress

Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Canada Regional Air T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5- M4-
Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1
Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 250 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 418 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ian Eastman on Jan 21, 2013
Admins: Mike Snyder

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This climb is defined by exposed climbing off the deck, small fussy gear and asthetic climbing up a gorgeous arete. It can be done as one long rope stretching pitch or broken into two pitches.
Pitch 1
Start from large belay on second pitch of Dihedrals of Horror. The route ascends the knife blade arete to the right of D.O.H.. From the belay you have two options, an easier 5.9 hand crack on the left side of the wall or a more difficult 5.10+ start on the right. Heading up to a small ledge where a #3 camalot placement is crucial to prevent a ground fall. Move slightly right and then up a small corner system, some small .25-.50 placements can be found through here. Climb up the corner system to a piton, clip it and move right around arete to a lieback on a flack system. Move up through another small insecure corner system, staying on arete, and up onto small ledge.
Possible location for belay.
Pitch 2
Climb left off ledge up small seam to insecure holds on arete, clipping bolt. Continue up arete working small holds for another 20' to easier ground above. Continue up to ledge for next belay.


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Ian Eastman