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Routes in Sitting Hen

Mr. Stubbs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A0
Type: Trad, Aid, 150 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Middendorf and Walt Shipley 1989
Page Views: 518 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 19, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

There are many options to the first pitch. We chose a wide crack in a corner on the east side.

P1: Climb the corner at 5.9+ to the ledge and build an anchor by slinging some rubble.

P1.5: 3rd class around the south side and up a ramp to the SW side. The bolts with rivet hangers on them will be obvious on the summit block.

P2: Climb up to the base of the 3 bolt, bolt ladder. Do a couple free moves up and right off the last bolt to a 3 bolt anchor on the summit.

One long rappel down the west side will get you to the ground.

Location

Walk from the car to the base of the talus cone. Scramble through the small cliff bands on the talus cone on the south side. There seem to be many different options for the first pitch, we started the route on the east side of the tower as DR4 suggests.

Protection

If you climb the first pitch we did I would take a single set from .3-3 camalot plus two #4 and a #5. Three quick draws, aiders, 2 ropes.

Photos

Maybe there was a different way for the approach (didn't appear to be?) but we scrambled up the northwest side for the approach (short minor class 4 bands), climbed a 5.9 crack on the northeast side, walked around (counterclockwise) to the south side, scrambled up a class 3 slot and then aided on bolts up the west face to the top.

A double rope rappel down the west face got us to the bottom.

I thought the rock quality on the climbing was fairly good but the rock quality on the scrambling was really chossy. Neat adventure and killer summit. Nov 21, 2014