Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Michael Stoger, Thomas Emde, Nov. 2008|
|Page Views:||1,034 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Max Tepfer on Jan 18, 2013|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
Pitch two: 5.12a. Spectacular, hard, cryptic, and very, very atypical of Smith climbing. Start up some easy choss and clip the first bolt. Two more bolts of easier stemming and palming lead to the fourth and final bolt. Clip the bolt and pull into a bizarre sequence of overhanging groove climbing to gain the aesthetic corner above. Still pumpy lie-backing and jamming will eventually take you to a two bolt anchor on an excellent ledge.
Pitch three: 10d. Jaw-droppingly good. From the top of P2, you can just crane your neck far enough back to see a wildly overhanging crack system traversing out to the left of the corner above the belay. It looks improbable and difficult to access, but ties together incredibly well. Mellow moves up the corner lead to a techy traverse left that gains a leftward trending ramp with bolts. Mantle onto the ramp and and commit to a wild undercling traverse up a thinning flake. Clip the final bolt and pull into an incredible sequence of long moves on huge holds that takes you to a final crux on gear. Belay at a two bolt belay on a sloping shelf.
Pitch four: 10a. The escape pitch. A thin slab move on bolts leads to easy climbing and a slightly manky bolted anchor on the summit. There is a brief stretch crap rock at the top of this pitch.
Descent: walk back along the summit towards a small cairn looking for a bolted rap anchor the sends you into the gully climbers right (east) of the summit. Two single rope raps drop you into the gully where you'll have to walk down to another two bolt anchor that will shoot you to the ground in one more single rope rap.