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The Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route

5.10c, Sport, 80 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 70 votes
FA: Brooke Sandahl 2012
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (l) Christian B… > Christian Brothers -…

Description

Mark was a pivotal climber in the 1980's and was a fantastic partner and avid mountaineer all around the Northwest. On June 14th 2012 he took a long and unroped fall during a solo ascent of Mt. Hood.
This intriguing addition to the Christian Brother's sport climbs is a memorial to Mark. You'll find that it is a little bit safer than BBQ the Pope, especially at the bottom where it has 3 bolts to BBQ's 2. Expect intellectual climbing for the first half and a line that slowly merges towards BBQ towards the end. Following an independent line at the very top is probably harder than traversing into the more chalked BBQ finish.

Location

In between Testament Crack to the left and BBQ the Pope to the right. The line has black Metolius Hangers on it. There is now a shared anchor for the MCM route and Testament Crack that is separate from the BBQ the Pope Anchors

Protection

This route starts with 6 Metolius hangers and finishes slightly right on the last 2 glue-in bolts on BBQ The Pope, leading to an anchor with fixed biners, so bring 8 draws

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Calvin Landrus
Bend, OR
5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] on-sighted it in the dark. Harder than BBQ. Sep 21, 2012
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] While it's a beautiful gesture to memorialize a friend with a new line, this route is a bit of a squeeze job. To the point that it seems like it undermines the intention of the gesture. Feb 16, 2013
Matt Baker
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Nice climb, a thinker:) Feb 15, 2016
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Perhaps a squeeze job up high, but the movement is great and the sustained technical nature of the route is very enjoyable. Sep 26, 2016
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Seemed harder than Fred On Air and Moons Of Pluto (both 10d) Jul 15, 2017
Derrick Peppers
Terrebonne, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Maybe this is a squeeze job in which case let’s chop the worse of the two...bbq. Of course I’m joking. Don’t chop routes. I know bbq is more iconic but this route climbs more aesthetically than its neighbor and is more varied in style. Not the same old nubbin, nubbin, crimp, nubbin. Nov 17, 2018
Ryan Wood
California
[Hide Comment] Is this the most stout 10c at Smith? Sure feels like it.

I agree with Derrick though. This climb is more varied than BBQ and also is really well-bolted. Sep 8, 2019