M7,
Trad, Mixed, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Bayard Russell, Bart Paul
New Hampshire
> NH Ice & Mixed
> Frankenstein Ice
> 3. Amphitheater Area
Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible.
Details
The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. In an effort to minimize time spent on the tracks we are asking that you please take the Frankenstein Cliff Trail to the Amphitheater when climbing at Frankenstein, instead of walking on the tracks directly from the parking lot. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.
The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.
Description
Cool, but kinda serious little route following a pick-sized crack out a small roof and into a shoulder-width tongue of steep, thin ice.
Location
This route comes in when Banshee drips over the short, overhanging wall below. Just left of Screaming.
Protection
Small cams, nuts, screws (stubbies) and in situ pins. Probably worth bringing a few extra LA or blades.