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Routes in Millennium Wall

Food Rage S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Millennium Traverse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rags to Riches S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mario Cantu?
Page Views: 1,435 total · 21/month
Shared By: CDD on Jan 14, 2013
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Great traverse, longest route at Reimer's Ranch I believe. One of the few QUALITY traverses I've done. Great exposure for the area and grade.

Climb up to the second bolt, traverse right for 8 more bolts, then at the 10th bolt go up and right to the anchors, clipping one more bolt.

Location

This route is the only notable route on the wall, it traverses the grey band above the roof from left to right. Go past dead cats, where the trail goes down, continue for 100 feet or so and cut back up to the choss. The route starts on the far right of the dirty ledge. There are a few options for getting on the ledge, some more chossy than others. I recommend going way left to the tree growing on the ledge (which is on by the way) and climbing up there, then walking back right to the first bolt at the end of the ledge.

Protection

11 Bolts and chain anchors. Need a 60 meter rope to lower off. Must follow to clean, so another option is to belay the second from the anchors, and then both rap off with a 30+ meter rope.

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Cameron Casey
Las Vegas
  5.10-
Cameron Casey   Las Vegas
  5.10-
This route, in my opinion, is one of the few gems of Reimers. Most routes at reimers can be climbed fairly quickly and aren't very tall. Millenium is long enough to enjoy and satisfy the need for a longer and more rewarding climb. Apr 30, 2014
This route was... interesting. You have to boulder up to the ledge by a tree covered in poison ivy to start (and then we stick clipped the first bolt because it looked and felt like straight choss). Make sure your belayer wears a helmet or has cat-like reflexes. Between 6-7 is a fairly terrifying runout. Prepare for plenty of sweat in the PM as the sun hits you perfectly.

No chains/sport clips at the anchors, by the way. May 30, 2017

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