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Routes in Bella Vista Slab

Bella Vista T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bella Vista to Benediction [Linkup] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Benediction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Bon Chance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Le Jeur de Bon Heures T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Leftover T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad, 410 ft, 4 pitches
FA: 2012
Page Views: 99 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 14, 2013
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

Cleaned up, this would be an excellent easy climb up the Bella Vista Slab.
P1: Climb up to a crack leading to the right-facing corner, then climb the corner to its end. Climb up onto a stance at a horizontal shelf, step left, and climb a series of pockets in a seam on easing-angled slab to a ledge with small oak trees left of an obvious steep headwall.
P2: Climb slab and left-facing corner left of the headwall to a point where one can climb up right around the corner onto the main slab. Climb up to a fixed anchor on a spruce tree and belay.
P3: Climb left of the spruce tree to a wide crack in slab, follow it to its end, then continue up easy slab to reach an oak tree with a fixed rappel anchor. Continue up to another oak tree at a good stance a few feet higher.
P4: Climb up and left onto the right edge of the slab to the left, and follow easy breaks and brushy gullies to perched blocks. Step left to join the last couple moves of Bella Vista.

Location

On the higher ledge 100' left and above the lowest point of the slab, near the left end of the high ledge, below a right-facing corner 10' right of a tree-choked, steep chute.

Protection

Standard Trad Rack. There are rappel anchors for all routes on the Bella Vista slab.

Photos

Ian Dibbs  
 
A gentle relaxing route with great views as you move up ... many trees are slung for rappelling down. Oct 5, 2017
Jay Harrison  
 
Sorry for the long delay - I don't check in on all the route comments regularly.
The pro for LJdBH is decent: the first pitch is dirty, so you may have to pull some grass clumps to access good pockets; think Tricams and narrow-headed cams. Second pitch has a small spruce tree to sling near the start. Crux move is getting past it; I believe a cam can be had in the corner crack, but you may have to trust the tree to do the move. There's another 5.3 move pulling onto the main slab, but that crack definitely protects it well. It's then an easy sub-fifth class runout to the spruce anchor shared by all the routes going up here. LJdBH utilizes a wide crack in the left side of the slab in order to provide gear (#4 C4 might help here, tho I use a #3) before moving over to rejoin the main run up this narrowing bit of slab. Again, easier but quite runout to the next anchor. The last pitch is a choice of easy, grassy ramps or running the rock gully right of Bella Vista's upper pitch, and diagonaling up right to avoid hard stuff. Gear can be had for most of it.
This route is on my tidy-up to-do list, but you know how that goes.
Finally, it's 5.3. Generally speaking, there's gear wherever the going gets anything resembling tough. Giucco Piano, at 5.8, has much harder friction moves, which tend to make people more nervous. There are no bolts on LJdBH; there isn't a need. And you can generally escape the slab almost anywhere along LJdBH, by traversing climber's left to trees or the gully. Jun 29, 2014
J Miles
Queensbury, NY
J Miles   Queensbury, NY
What's the protection like on the route? It's listed as PG13 here, but shown as G on the adirondack rock website. If it is in fact PG13, how does the runout compare to Giucco Piano (5.8 PG13) on the slab below? May 24, 2014