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Routes in Telegraph Peak

Cool Fun Route, The 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 PG13
Northwest Face II AI2-3, 400M T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 PG13
One Nut Wonder II 5.6 AI3, 600m T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 PG13
Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 976 total · 16/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Jan 13, 2013
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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One Nut Wonder is the name I gave to the major West Face couloir on Telegraph Peak. It starts near Cedar Glen, goes up an avy path, and steepens at the crux, which could be iced up (much easier and more fun), or dry.

Above the short crux is a runnel of low angle ice. The couloir opens up to a wide snow gully up to 45 or 50 degrees or so (no fancy science here), which then terminates near the south summit.

The views are really special. The San Gabes are where my soul belongs, and when I'm climbing this route I soak in some of the best views I've ever seen.

The name was given when I took several falls on the crux on a dry year following Alex F. I smashed one of my testicles repeatedly in my BD Alpine Bod harness. The crux was protected by a single nut.


Start at the Icehouse Canyon trailhead. Hike up IHC trail and make the left turn to Cedar Glen. Once at Cedar Glen campground, continue hiking for a bit until you can make a beeline up to the base of the couloir. You will have to check your map here to find the right way.

I have approached the route from a lot of different directions, and honestly they're all kinda crappy. Just go for it and you'll probably have fun.


A very light alpine rack. A range of a few nuts, maybe a small #5-6 hex, a couple stubby screws and a couple snow pickets. Or, go without and go fast. Really depends on conditions, and you won't know til you're at the crux.


Grand Rapids, MI
ttriche   Grand Rapids, MI
yet another good argument for always climbing what you plan to ski Jan 14, 2013
All up in yo bidniss.
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
This would be a fun ski descent if the skier was wary of the crux. Jan 14, 2013