PRINT: Rock Climb The Fiddler Roof, Red Rocks

The Fiddler Roof

5.10, Trad, 185 ft (56 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 8 votes
FA: Dan Goodwin and Joanne Urioste, Jun 1981
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Black Velvet Ca… > Black Velvet Wall

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

A good climb with some wide climbing, sure to be added to the list of classic cragging routes in Black Velvet.

P1. 5.10+. 75'. Single .3-5 (optional extra 5)
Climb the clean wide crack, assisted by some crimps. This maxes out at 10a until the roof. Place a finger sized cam or 2 over the roof on the left side, and pull the roof (crux). All of the holds are trustworthy, and the gear is good. Good gear and jams to the bolted anchor.

P2. 5.10+, 110'. Single to 3, triples 4 and 5. Though the crack is wide, the climbing is not. The pitch is characterized by good cams, and liebacking. The longer the runouts the easier the climbing. Belay from a comfortable stance at a bolted belay.

A single 70m rope will get you to the first anchor of Overhanging Hangover, and then down. It is best to rack up at the base and scramble up to the start of the climb as you do not rappel back to that ledge.

Location

Between Fiddler and Overhanging Hangover. Scramble up some 3rd/4th class ramps to reach a ledge on the left side of a dark varnished pillar.

Protection

Single rack to BD #3, 2-3each #4-#5.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt Kuehl climbs the splitter.<br>
Photo: Andy Reger

Matt Kuehl climbs the splitter. Photo: Andy Reger

Classic right off the deck.

Placing gear to pull the roof

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Daniel Urioste

Fantastic crack climbing on this one. After the first two pitches described above we climbed the horizontal crack that forms under the roof. Albeit a bit crunchy if provided fun jamming and it easily links up into the Overhanging Hangover roof traverse. 11.b Sep 28, 2023

Endogenous Jams
Laramie, WY

5.10

Really enjoyed this crack! Only did the first pitch, but it was well worth it! Ixtlan is now in my sights...

From the parking lot (saw a minivan out there), follow the main trail into the arroyo (second entrance). Keep going until you come across a small 15 foot waterfall (haha, it's a desert!) that is impassible. The route is located on the left side of the big arch you see when approaching the Black Velvet Wall (not the earlier Whiskey Peak). Do a class 4/low 5 scramble up a wall (I saw a dog down climb it. What's my excuse?). Trails will be there. Outer exposed ledge is an easier approach to base.

GEAR: 2-3x#5, 2x#4, #3, 1-2x#2, 2x#1, #0.5, 3 single aplines.

SPOILER: #4 protects the start. Then enjoy a delightful hand crack with your #2 (if you can do 5.10, you should only need 1 #2). Offwidth is a long, delightful #5 crack with OFF LIMITS crimps (unless you're into that). Enjoy resting on your knee until the crack narrows to a #4. Alpine a #3 at the top of the crack you've been climbing and place an alpined #1 under the hand crack to make your nest for the roof. There is a seem which could maybe fit a #0.0-0.2 or nuts. Chicken head your way through the roof (there are feet!) to slot a 0.5. Extend it if you are feeling brave! Layback through a #1. There is a slot for your leg to clip the anchor. Dec 2, 2025