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Routes in Meilee Area

Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Bernd and Andy, circa 2009
Page Views: 1,248 total, 21/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Jan 9, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start low in the small alcove with two edges close to each other. Negotiate your way to the arete to climber's right, and compress your way to victory using holds on the arete and the obvious water runnel.

In a nice, relatively secluded spot. Great fun.

If anyone has info for this problem, please share. I'm sure it's been done before.

Location

Located 10 feet directly right of the start of Breathless, this problem is on a boulder that is on the other side of the tree that shades Breathless.

Protection

pads

Photos

Sean Denny
Irvine
 
Sean Denny   Irvine
 
Just goes to show the more folks that climb a problem, the more fine tuned the beta gets. Looking at the photo now, it seems obvious to go to the opposite arete for compression, but at the time it didn't even occur to me to try that.

Nice job Antonio! Dec 19, 2014
Antonio Labaro  
  V6
This problem has some great moves!

I think the way I did this is much easier than what's shown in the picture.
BETA:
From the sit, I went up with the left hand and fell into the bottom of the runnel instead of the bad pocket. Then I went out far right to the other side of the arete, which is a sandy jug. From there I could adjust my body and easily bump my right hand to the front sloper. The rest isn't too bad. Apr 20, 2014
Tim King
  V7
Tim King  
  V7
Sweet, glad to see this here. Did the stand (from just after the sit start crux) a while ago, but kept forgetting to go back and work the whole shebang. Love the left hand slope rail on this one, good fun and fairly unique (for the area) movement. For sure will have to get out on this tomorrow.

Edit: Nabbed this one right as the rain was coming in. Finally dialed in the crux as I noticed a few scarce drops. I knew I only had one more good try. A quick change of beta for the top section, a final brushing, and then the crux. Reach, stick! A few moments later I was on top. Just in time, as I was able to pack and make it back to the car seconds before the real rain hit. Jan 20, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Done. Great name. I changed it on the heading. Jan 13, 2013
Sean Denny
Irvine
 
Sean Denny   Irvine
 
Well, the corridor it sits in is certainly on the breezy side of things. If we called it "Windwalker" would that suit everyone? Jan 11, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Bernd and I did it years ago. About three or four, if memory serves. We thought it was a V7, and we didn't name it. Sean, if you can think of a moniker, be my guest.

I like this line. Grunty. Burl. Fun. Jan 10, 2013
Sean, from your description, I'm pretty sure that this is right next to the classic one-mover Brute Force.

O11: Page 67, problem 23 - "Project V? - The sloping rail directly left of Brute Force"

I can't even remember it, but yeah, probably been done after all these years. Nice job. Jan 10, 2013