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Routes in Hole in the Wall

Another Pair of New Shoes T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Birth of the Cool T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Body Nazi T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr Jeckle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
End of My Rope T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Insane Clown Posse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Miss Piggy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mouth of a Sailor S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Hyde T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Occasional Freshman T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Paydirt T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rastafari T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sailor Slang S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Senior Prom S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sister Sledge S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sophmoric Sandbag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Strike It Rich T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Three Little Birds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 102 ft
FA: Bryan Pletta & Karl Kiser & Noah Monagle, Fall 2012
Page Views: 548 total, 9/month
Shared By: Karl Kiser on Jan 9, 2013
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb straight up through the roofs on good holds (the crux). A 60 m rope can be used but exercise care when lowering.

Location

The route is on the right side of Hole in the Wall, just left of the gully which separates Hole in the Wall from the Redeemer formation. Rap the route.

Protection

Mixed route, gear and bolts. Standard trad rack to hand sized cam (gold camalot). Anchors and chain at the top.

Photos

Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9-
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9-
The holds may have changed since the FA (in fact a small one broke while I lead it, leaving behind a cleaner crack). In its current state, this is not a Sandias 5.10. We could think of some nearby 5.8s that might be harder.

The climb is steep and fun and has great protection at the cruxes. The bolts are thoughtfully placed to prevent any ledge-fall potential. This is a great route for an aspiring 5.9 leader.

Unfortunately we experienced a nearly constant rain of sand and gravel as the rope rubbed off crystals from the rock and knocked gruss out of the gully on top. Recent rain may have washed some material into the gully and lower slope. My second got pegged in the tooth and under her eye while climbing it. We recommend flipping the belayer's rope out of the gully when seconding/top-roping to reduce some of the assault. Sep 4, 2017