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Nuclear Waste
5.10b,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 2 from 9
votes
FA: Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery & Randy Vogel, 1982
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Rdsi…
> IRS Wall
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Some 5.10- face climbing past a bolt (crux) on crunchy edges leads up and right to a crack. This crack is low angle and uninteresting, so place a piece or two and then bust out left into the steeper thin crack that splits the center of the buttress. Edges and the occasional fingerlock will see you through until the crack opens up higher. Belay from a 2 bolt anchor shared with Alf's Arete .11a.
Location
Just right of the famous
Alf's Arete .11a, starting on the right side of the large yucca at it's base. Rappel from 2 bolt anchor. Easily TR'ed after doing Alf's Arete.
Protection
Bolt (3/8"), thin wires, maybe brass, and some gear to 2" perhaps.